New Reeds

Always make sure the wires are where they should be, and they have not fallen, or turned around (wire ends on opposite sides of the reed, according to manufacturer). Dry fit the reed on your bocal: does it go on too far or not enough or does it wobble? Hopefully none of these things, but check the wires and ream as necessary.

Soak the reed (only 1-3 minutes; enough time to put your bassoon together). Check the fit of the reed again. Different manufacturers like their reeds to go on at different depths. My ideal depth is 7-10mm from the base of the reed, depending on the shape and bocal type.

Play scales, flick tones, long tones, articulation type exercises to get a feel for the new reed and see where it needs to break in and be adjusted. Don’t make changes to the reed for the first few days of playing on it, as the fibers of the reed are breaking in and getting use to vibrating in this unnatural way (it is a plant, after-all).

After 7-10 days of breaking in the reed, begin making adjustments as necessary, and very slowly.

Soaking Reeds

Have a clean water container. Film canisters, pill bottles (ask your pharmacist, it usually isn’t a problem), sterile specimen or laboratory vials, and all sorts of Tupperware/Rubbermade type containers. CLEAN FREQUENTLY. Make sure the container is tall enough to have the reed totally submerged.

Never over soak your reed(s). Finished reeds and blanks only need 1-3 minutes of soak time to be ready for performance or working on - the time it takes to assemble ones bassoon. Make sure to soak in clean, filtered water to reduce mold and mildew in the case.

CHANGE THE WATER EVERY DAY, most often, multiple times per practice session if you have dirty reeds, were eating recently, are scraping on reeds, etc. Never put your reed into dirty or old water; this may cause mildew and mold growth.

DO NOT soak the reed in your mouth. This deteriorates the reed, soaks the reed unevenly, and makes the reed more resistant due to the uneven soaking.

Cleaning Reeds

Make sure to keep the reeds clean to help keep them crowing at their best. Plaque from our mouths can build up on the reeds over time and dampen the vibrations of the reed- this is one of the many reasons brushing our teeth is so important!

To begin, I like to make sure the reed is soaked in filtered water, as if I were going to play on the reed. I then take my reed making plaque, insert it into the reed, I then use another plastic plaque or some fine sandpaper to lightly wipe the gunk away on the blades; making sure to dip the reed often.

If that doesn’t get all the gunk away, get a small crafting pipe cleaner (make sure it doesn’t have any poky metal, just fluffy stuff), and run it through the reed with warm water. BE GENTLE, reeds are fragile.

If both of these don’t get the reed clean enough for you, you can dip your reed in hydrogen peroxide (HP) and/or 60%+ rubbing alcohol (RA). Soak in either, option for no more than one minute, then rinse thoroughly with warm water. DO NOT use HP or RA too often, as they will start to eat away at the reed, due to the natural decomposition of the cane (what the reed is made from).

USE A REED CASE, or container with adequate aeration for the reeds to breath and dry out between uses. In some climates, and during some dry times of the year, it may be OK to have a totally enclosed case so the reeds don’t become brittle from being overly dried out.

Altoid containers, antique cigarette cases, and other plastic storage containers with holes drilled make for great storage options.

NEVER use the reed vial that a reed is sold in. Always recycle the vial (or keep for later use) and transfer the reed to a proper reed case.

Pegs VS. Springs VS Ribbon reed cases. Any are fine, as long as there is good air circulation, and the parts holding the reed are not wood (plastic, metal, nylon, silicone, etc. help prevent mold and rot). The cases themselves can be made of many materials, and there will always be a case that suits your personal tastes and needs.

Rotating Reeds